HomeWiki source code of Prusa Slicer
Version 9.1 by Josh McGee on 2025/10/20 03:13
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1.2 | 1 | {{expandable expandByDefault="true" summary="Upon first setup"}} |
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2.1 | 2 | 1. Download PrusaSlicer from prusa3d.com (no need to create an account) |
| 3 | 1. On first run, the configuration assistance will appear. (No need to create an account. You can skip the login page.) | ||
| 4 | 1. In “Configuration sources”, select only “Prusa FFF” and “Other FFF”. | ||
| 5 | 1. Add MCI’s Prusa printers: i3 MK3, i3 MK3S, and i3 MK2S, all with 0.4mm nozzle and without MMU. | ||
| 6 | 1. In “Other FFF”, select only Creality. | ||
| 7 | 1. Add Creality Ender-3 with 0.6mm nozzle, Ender-5 with 0.4mm nozzle, and CR-5 Pro H with 0.4mm nozzle. | ||
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1.2 | 8 | {{/expandable}} |
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7.2 | 10 | === Load your file === |
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2.2 | 11 | |
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| 13 | If you have a .stl, .obj, .step, .amf, or .3mf file, use the | ||
| 14 | File > Import > ImportSTL/3MF/STEP/OBJ/AMF command | ||
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6.1 | 15 | |
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6.2 | 16 | [[image:Screenshot 2025-10-20 135757.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" height="290px" width="500px"]] |
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6.1 | 17 | |
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7.2 | 18 | === Select your print settings === |
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7.3 | 20 | 1. ((( |
| 21 | Set the layer height using the Print Settings dropdown to be 0.2 by default. | ||
| 22 | |||
| 23 | If you select smaller values then that will allow you to print finer details but the print will take longer. | ||
| 24 | |||
| 25 | If you select larger values then your print will have less detail, but it will be faster. | ||
| 26 | ))) | ||
| 27 | 1. ((( | ||
| 28 | Set the filament type using the Filament dropdown. This should be written on the side of the filament reel. | ||
| 29 | ))) | ||
| 30 | 1. ((( | ||
| 31 | Set the printer type using the Printer dropdown. This should be written on a wooden card in front of the printer you're using. | ||
| 32 | ))) | ||
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8.2 | 36 | === Orientation/Supports === |
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7.3 | 37 | |
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8.2 | 38 | === === |
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8.1 | 40 | The orientation of your 3D print is important because each layer is supported by the one beneath it. For example if you were 3D printing a pyramid, you would ideally want the base of the pyramid to be the base of the 3d print. Use the Rotate command to rotate your part if you need to. |
| 41 | \\??? image goes here: The rotate command can be found in the panel on the left | ||
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| 44 | If your design needs to have overhanging or unsupported pieces, then you have two main options: | ||
| 45 | 1) Have the slicer add in supports which can be broken off once the print is finished. To do this make sure the Supports dropdown is not None. | ||
| 46 | 2) Use the Cut command to cut your part into pieces that could each be printed like a pyramid. For example a sphere would be very difficult to print and would require a lot of supports, but if you cut the sphere in half each half could act effectively as a pyramid and would be very simple to cut. When the print is finished, the two halves can then be glued together. | ||
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7.3 | 47 | |
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8.1 | 48 | |
| 49 | ??? image goes here | ||
| 50 | |||
| 51 | === | ||
| 52 | \\Other printing options === | ||
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8.2 | 55 | |
| 56 | ??? 2 images go here | ||
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| 59 | === Export G-Code === | ||
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9.1 | 62 | Once you're happy with your settings, click the (% class="mark" %)##Slice now##(%%) button which can be found at the bottom of the right panel. |
| 63 | ??? image goes here | ||
| 64 | Once it has finished slicing, the Slice now button will turn into Export G-code. Click this to save your g-code file. |