Wiki source code of Prusa Slicer
Version 11.1 by Josh McGee on 2025/10/20 03:20
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| author | version | line-number | content |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | {{expandable expandByDefault="true" summary="Upon first setup"}} | ||
| 2 | 1. Download PrusaSlicer from prusa3d.com (no need to create an account) | ||
| 3 | 1. On first run, the configuration assistance will appear. (No need to create an account. You can skip the login page.) | ||
| 4 | 1. In “Configuration sources”, select only “Prusa FFF” and “Other FFF”. | ||
| 5 | 1. Add MCI’s Prusa printers: i3 MK3, i3 MK3S, and i3 MK2S, all with 0.4mm nozzle and without MMU. | ||
| 6 | 1. In “Other FFF”, select only Creality. | ||
| 7 | 1. Add Creality Ender-3 with 0.6mm nozzle, Ender-5 with 0.4mm nozzle, and CR-5 Pro H with 0.4mm nozzle. | ||
| 8 | {{/expandable}} | ||
| 9 | |||
| 10 | === Load your file === | ||
| 11 | |||
| 12 | |||
| 13 | If you have a (% class="mark" %)##.stl##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.obj##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.step##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.amf##(%%), or (% class="mark" %)##.3mf##(%%) file, use the | ||
| 14 | (% class="mark" %)##File > Import > ImportSTL/3MF/STEP/OBJ/AMF##(%%) command | ||
| 15 | |||
| 16 | [[image:Screenshot 2025-10-20 135757.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" height="290px" width="500px"]] | ||
| 17 | |||
| 18 | === Select your print settings === | ||
| 19 | |||
| 20 | 1. ((( | ||
| 21 | Set the layer height using the (% class="mark" %)##Print Settings##(%%) dropdown to be (% class="mark" %)##0.2##(%%) by default. | ||
| 22 | |||
| 23 | If you select smaller values then that will allow you to print finer details but the print will take longer. | ||
| 24 | |||
| 25 | If you select larger values then your print will have less detail, but it will be faster. | ||
| 26 | ))) | ||
| 27 | 1. ((( | ||
| 28 | Set the filament type using the (% class="mark" %)##Filament##(%%) dropdown. This should be written on the side of the filament reel. | ||
| 29 | ))) | ||
| 30 | 1. ((( | ||
| 31 | Set the printer type using the (% class="mark" %)##Printer##(%%) dropdown. This should be written on a wooden card in front of the printer you're using. | ||
| 32 | ))) | ||
| 33 | |||
| 34 | |||
| 35 | |||
| 36 | === Orientation/Supports === | ||
| 37 | |||
| 38 | === === | ||
| 39 | |||
| 40 | The orientation of your 3D print is important because each layer is supported by the one beneath it. For example if you were 3D printing a pyramid, you would ideally want the base of the pyramid to be the base of the 3d print. Use the Rotate command to rotate your part if you need to. | ||
| 41 | \\??? image goes here: The rotate command can be found in the panel on the left | ||
| 42 | |||
| 43 | |||
| 44 | If your design needs to have overhanging or unsupported pieces, then you have two main options: | ||
| 45 | 1) Have the slicer add in supports which can be broken off once the print is finished. To do this make sure the Supports dropdown is not None. | ||
| 46 | 2) Use the Cut command to cut your part into pieces that could each be printed like a pyramid. For example a sphere would be very difficult to print and would require a lot of supports, but if you cut the sphere in half each half could act effectively as a pyramid and would be very simple to cut. When the print is finished, the two halves can then be glued together. | ||
| 47 | |||
| 48 | |||
| 49 | ??? image goes here | ||
| 50 | |||
| 51 | === | ||
| 52 | \\Other printing options === | ||
| 53 | |||
| 54 | |||
| 55 | |||
| 56 | ??? 2 images go here | ||
| 57 | |||
| 58 | |||
| 59 | === Export G-Code === | ||
| 60 | |||
| 61 | |||
| 62 | Once you're happy with your settings, click the (% class="mark" %)##Slice now##(%%) button which can be found at the bottom of the right panel. | ||
| 63 | ??? image goes here | ||
| 64 | Once it has finished slicing, the Slice now button will turn into Export G-code. Click this to save your g-code file. |