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Changes for page Prusa Slicer

Last modified by Josh McGee on 2025/11/08 03:20
From version 8.1
edited by Josh McGee
on 2025/10/20 03:10
Change comment: There is no comment for this version
To version 18.1
edited by Josh McGee
on 2025/11/08 03:18
Change comment: There is no comment for this version

Summary

Details

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10 10  === Load your file ===
11 11  
12 12  
13 -If you have a .stl, .obj, .step, .amf, or .3mf file, use the 
14 -File > Import > ImportSTL/3MF/STEP/OBJ/AMF command
13 +If you have a (% class="mark" %)##.stl##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.obj##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.step##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.amf##(%%), or (% class="mark" %)##.3mf##(%%) file, use the 
14 +(% class="mark" %)##File > Import > ImportSTL/3MF/STEP/OBJ/AMF##(%%) command
15 15  
16 -[[image:Screenshot 2025-10-20 135757.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" height="290px" width="500px"]]
16 +[[image:Screenshot 2025-10-20 135757.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" width="500px"]]
17 17  
18 18  === Select your print settings ===
19 19  
20 +[[image:Screenshot 2025-10-20 140411.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" width="500px"]]
21 +
20 20  1. (((
21 -Set the layer height using the Print Settings dropdown to be 0.2 by default.
23 +Set the layer height using the (% class="mark" %)##Print Settings##(%%) dropdown to be (% class="mark" %)##0.2##(%%) by default.
22 22  
23 23  If you select smaller values then that will allow you to print finer details but the print will take longer.
24 24  
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25 25  If you select larger values then your print will have less detail, but it will be faster.
26 26  )))
27 27  1. (((
28 -Set the filament type using the Filament dropdown. This should be written on the side of the filament reel.
30 +Set the filament type using the (% class="mark" %)##Filament##(%%) dropdown. This should be written on the side of the filament reel.
29 29  )))
30 30  1. (((
31 -Set the printer type using the Printer dropdown. This should be written on a wooden card in front of the printer you're using.
33 +Set the printer type using the (% class="mark" %)##Printer##(%%) dropdown. This should be written on a wooden card in front of the printer you're using.
32 32  )))
33 33  
34 34  
35 35  
36 -=== Orientation/Supports
37 - ===
38 +=== Orientation/Supports ===
38 38  
39 -The orientation of your 3D print is important because each layer is supported by the one beneath it. For example if you were 3D printing a pyramid, you would ideally want the base of the pyramid to be the base of the 3d print. Use the Rotate command to rotate your part if you need to.
40 -\\??? image goes here: The rotate command can be found in the panel on the left
40 +=== ===
41 41  
42 +The orientation of your 3D print is important because each layer is supported by the one beneath it. For example if you were 3D printing a pyramid, you would ideally want the base of the pyramid to be the base of the 3d print. Use the (% class="mark" %)##Rotate##(%%) command to rotate your part if you need to.
43 +\\
42 42  
45 +[[The rotate command can be found in the panel on the left>>image:image1.png||alt="The rotate command can be found in the panel on the left" data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" height="500px" width="325px"]]
46 +
47 +
43 43  If your design needs to have overhanging or unsupported pieces, then you have two main options:
44 -1) Have the slicer add in supports which can be broken off once the print is finished. To do this make sure the Supports dropdown is not None.
45 -2) Use the Cut command to cut your part into pieces that could each be printed like a pyramid. For example a sphere would be very difficult to print and would require a lot of supports, but if you cut the sphere in half each half could act effectively as a pyramid and would be very simple to cut. When the print is finished, the two halves can then be glued together.
49 +1) Have the slicer add in supports which can be broken off once the print is finished. To do this make sure the (% class="mark" %)##Supports##(%%) dropdown is not (% class="mark" %)##None##(%%).
50 +2) Use the (% class="mark" %)##Cut##(%%) command to cut your part into pieces that could each be printed like a pyramid. For example a sphere would be very difficult to print and would require a lot of supports, but if you cut the sphere in half each half could act effectively as a pyramid and would be very simple to cut. When the print is finished, the two halves can then be glued together.
46 46  
47 47  
48 -??? image goes here
53 +[[image:image2.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" height="268px" width="500px"]]
49 49  
50 50  ===
51 51  \\Other printing options ===
52 52  
53 53  
54 -\\??? 2 images go here
55 -
59 +[[image:image20.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" height="258px" width="500px"]]
60 +
61 +[[image:image17.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" height="278px" width="500px"]]
62 +
63 +=== Export G-Code ===
64 +
65 +
66 +Once you're happy with your settings, click the (% class="mark" %)##Slice now##(%%) button which can be found at the bottom of the right panel.
67 +??? image goes here
68 +Once it has finished slicing, the (% class="mark" %)##Slice now##(%%) button will turn into (% class="mark" %)##Export G-code##(%%). Click this to save your g-code file.
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