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Changes for page Prusa Slicer

Last modified by Josh McGee on 2025/11/08 03:20
From version 12.1
edited by Josh McGee
on 2025/10/20 03:22
Change comment: There is no comment for this version
To version 1.1
edited by Josh McGee
on 2025/10/20 02:32
Change comment: There is no comment for this version

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1 -{{expandable expandByDefault="true" summary="Upon first setup"}}
2 -1. Download PrusaSlicer from prusa3d.com (no need to create an account)
3 -1. On first run, the configuration assistance will appear. (No need to create an account. You can skip the login page.)
4 -1. In “Configuration sources”, select only “Prusa FFF” and “Other FFF”.
5 -1. Add MCI’s Prusa printers: i3 MK3, i3 MK3S, and i3 MK2S, all with 0.4mm nozzle and without MMU.
6 -1. In “Other FFF”, select only Creality.
7 -1. Add Creality Ender-3 with 0.6mm nozzle, Ender-5 with 0.4mm nozzle, and CR-5 Pro H with 0.4mm nozzle.
8 -{{/expandable}}
9 -
10 -=== Load your file ===
11 -
12 -
13 -If you have a (% class="mark" %)##.stl##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.obj##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.step##(%%), (% class="mark" %)##.amf##(%%), or (% class="mark" %)##.3mf##(%%) file, use the 
14 -(% class="mark" %)##File > Import > ImportSTL/3MF/STEP/OBJ/AMF##(%%) command
15 -
16 -[[image:Screenshot 2025-10-20 135757.png||data-xwiki-image-style-alignment="center" height="290px" width="500px"]]
17 -
18 -=== Select your print settings ===
19 -
20 -1. (((
21 -Set the layer height using the (% class="mark" %)##Print Settings##(%%) dropdown to be (% class="mark" %)##0.2##(%%) by default.
22 -
23 -If you select smaller values then that will allow you to print finer details but the print will take longer.
24 -
25 -If you select larger values then your print will have less detail, but it will be faster.
26 -)))
27 -1. (((
28 -Set the filament type using the (% class="mark" %)##Filament##(%%) dropdown. This should be written on the side of the filament reel.
29 -)))
30 -1. (((
31 -Set the printer type using the (% class="mark" %)##Printer##(%%) dropdown. This should be written on a wooden card in front of the printer you're using.
32 -)))
33 -
34 -
35 -
36 -=== Orientation/Supports ===
37 -
38 -=== ===
39 -
40 -The orientation of your 3D print is important because each layer is supported by the one beneath it. For example if you were 3D printing a pyramid, you would ideally want the base of the pyramid to be the base of the 3d print. Use the (% class="mark" %)##Rotate##(%%) command to rotate your part if you need to.
41 -\\??? image goes here: The rotate command can be found in the panel on the left
42 -
43 -
44 -If your design needs to have overhanging or unsupported pieces, then you have two main options:
45 -1) Have the slicer add in supports which can be broken off once the print is finished. To do this make sure the (% class="mark" %)##Supports##(%%) dropdown is not (% class="mark" %)##None##(%%).
46 -2) Use the (% class="mark" %)##Cut##(%%) command to cut your part into pieces that could each be printed like a pyramid. For example a sphere would be very difficult to print and would require a lot of supports, but if you cut the sphere in half each half could act effectively as a pyramid and would be very simple to cut. When the print is finished, the two halves can then be glued together.
47 -
48 -
49 -??? image goes here
50 -
51 -===
52 -\\Other printing options ===
53 -
54 -
55 -
56 -??? 2 images go here
57 -
58 -
59 -=== Export G-Code ===
60 -
61 -
62 -Once you're happy with your settings, click the (% class="mark" %)##Slice now##(%%) button which can be found at the bottom of the right panel.
63 -??? image goes here
64 -Once it has finished slicing, the (% class="mark" %)##Slice now##(%%) button will turn into (% class="mark" %)##Export G-code##(%%). Click this to save your g-code file.
Screenshot 2025-10-20 135757.png
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